Tehuantepec and Juchitan Gala Costume collection from the John and Stafford Thomas Collection, these are beautiful examples of the gala costume from the Isthmus Zapotec. These dresses are used for all major festivals, weddings and offical events.

Provenance- Everything was purchased in Tehuantepec, Juchitan, or Oaxaca between 1995 and 1997. Those purchased in Oaxaca were purchased from a collection. Those from Tehuantepec or Juchitan were purchased directly from the older women who lived in the villages.

Techniques Four different types of embroidery are represented. The majority of the pieces (flowers and leaves) are hand done "abordar". The typical yellow and red geometric work is done on a machine. It is called "costura". See images Tehuantepec 8 and 9 and Tehuantepec Skirt7 for examples, where the costumes in Tehuantepec 8 and 9 are a mix of abordar and costura. The third type of work is hand done with a tool similar to a crochet hook (or possibly a hand-held machine). This work is called "gancho". The images in Tehuantepec Skirt 6 and Tehuantepec 10 are great examples of gancho with a similar yellow on red satin format. Tehuantepec Skirt 10 is another example of gancho.

Dating Some of the oldest pieces are the skirts shown in Tehuantepec Skirt 1 thru 6 which date to the 30s-40s. These have smaller flowers and open design. The dress in Tehaunatepec10 is of a similar date. The dress in Tehuantepec 9 was dated to 1935 and was owned by the mother of the woman shown in Tehuana1. This woman is pictured in Tehuana1 where she is wearing the costume shown in Tehuantepec 5 that was given to her by her mother when she was 18 in 1946. The skirts in Tehuantepec Skirt 7 and 8 date from the 50s. All of these pieces were purchased in Tehuantepec from elderly women. All of the other pieces in the collection date from the 40s - 80s.

Olans and Huipil Grande The olans are sewn around the bottom of the dresses and skirts. The huipil grande is worn on the head. The huipil grande pictured is all cotton from the 50s. The olans are all cotton with Olan1 dating from the 70s, Olan 2 and 3 from the 50s, and Olan4 and 5 from the 30s. Today, all olans are made of synthetic nylon. The word "olan" comes from the word "Holland" where the early Tehuanas ordered their lace from.

Other Images Tehuana1 shows a woman in Tehuantepec in the dress she received as a gift in 1946. Tehuana2 is of a woman from Juchitan wearing a huipil she told us was 15 years old in 1995. The images in Tehuantepec Village1 thru 4 are of the market around the town square. The image in Juchitan Flower Market is of the flower market on the Juchitan square.

10_Tehuantepec.jpg	11-Tehuantepec.jpg	12-Tehuantepec.jpg	13-Tehuantepec.jpg	1_Tehuantepec.jpg
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Provenance- Everything was purchased in Tehuantepec, Juchitan, or Oaxaca between 1995 and 1997. Those purchased in Oaxaca were purchased from a collection. Those from Tehuantepec or Juchitan were purchased directly from the older women who lived in the villages. Techniques Four different types of embroidery are represented. The majority of the pieces (flowers and leaves) are hand done "abordar". The typical yellow and red geometric work is done on a machine. It is called "costura". See images Tehuantepec 8 and 9 and Tehuantepec Skirt7 for examples, where the costumes in Tehuantepec 8 and 9 are a mix of abordar and costura. The third type of work is hand done with a tool similar to a crochet hook (or possibly a hand-held machine). This work is called "gancho". The images in Tehuantepec Skirt 6 and Tehuantepec 10 are great examples of gancho with a similar yellow on red satin format. Tehuantepec Skirt 10 is another example of gancho. Dating Some of the oldest pieces are the skirts shown in Tehuantepec Skirt 1 thru 6 which date to the 30s-40s. These have smaller flowers and open design. The dress in Tehaunatepec10 is of a similar date. The dress in Tehuantepec 9 was dated to 1935 and was owned by the mother of the woman shown in Tehuana1. This woman is pictured in Tehuana1 where she is wearing the costume shown in Tehuantepec 5 that was given to her by her mother when she was 18 in 1946. The skirts in Tehuantepec Skirt 7 and 8 date from the 50s. All of these pieces were purchased in Tehuantepec from elderly women. All of the other pieces in the collection date from the 40s - 80s. Olans and Huipil Grande The olans are sewn around the bottom of the dresses and skirts. The huipil grande is worn on the head. The huipil grande pictured is all cotton from the 50s. The olans are all cotton with Olan1 dating from the 70s, Olan 2 and 3 from the 50s, and Olan4 and 5 from the 30s. Today, all olans are made of synthetic nylon. The word "olan" comes from the word "Holland" where the early Tehuanas ordered their lace from. Other Images Tehuana1 shows a woman in Tehuantepec in the dress she received as a gift in 1946. Tehuana2 is of a woman from Juchitan wearing a huipil she told us was 15 years old in 1995. The images in Tehuantepec Village1 thru 4 are of the market around the town square. The image in Juchitan Flower Market is of the flower market on the Juchitan square.